Showing posts with label Otaki. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Otaki. Show all posts

Genryu Fishing of Japan #48


The River of Sebata-san’s

by Keiichi Okushi 

One day in March, I received a FB message from Sebata-san. There was a link, so when I clicked on it, it seemed that a dedicated section for tenkara fishing was opened in Kuro-kawa, which flows through the village of Okorogawa in Mae-Nikko. Kuro-kawa is the mountain stream where young Sebata-san first met tenkara fishing many years ago.

Sebata-san took on the ambassador for this Tenkara-only section because of the relationship at that time. Recently, this kind of special sections dedicated to Tenkara fishing have been opened in some rivers in various places of Japan. The special section of Kuro-kawa is the second special section dedicated to Tenkara fishing in Tochigi prefecture.

"I want to fish in the river that Sebata-san fished on his young day. ","I want to see the sceneries of the river that Sebata-san saw." I talked it with some genryu fishing friends.

Then one Saturday in April, about a month later. I was driving west on the highway in the early morning toward the Okorogawa. Okorogawa is a mountain village located in the Mae-Nikko Mountains, which lies on the south of Nikko, which is registered as a World Heritage Site, and also about 20 km west of Utsunomiya, the prefectural capital of Tochigi Prefecture. From Mito where I live, I can reach Okorogawa in about 2 hours using the highway.

Around 7:00 am, after passing the last big town Kanuma, the scenery became a rural landscape. Eventually, the road ran along the Kuro-kawa and gradually entered the mountains.

When I entered the village of Okorogawa, I saw the brave figure of Mt.Nikko-Nantai beyond the gorge in the direction of travel. Okorogawa was a beautiful village that retains the atmosphere of a Japanese mountain village in the good old days. I had heard from Sebata-san many times about Okorogawa and the stories of learning Tenkara fishing there. "OK, this is the scenery of Koraigawa.” I wondered in my mind.

When Sebata-san was only 20 years old, he was working at an automobile company in Utsunomiya. At that time, Sebata-san was absorbed in the mountain stream fishing he just learned, and if he had time, he would go out to the mountain stream near Utsunomiya and spend all his time fishing. Sebata-san was still doing bait fishing then.


 One day, Sebata-san encountered a mysterious fishing in Okorogawa. That was the fishing which casts only the kebari and line without bait or weight. That was the tenkara fishing that was handed down to Okorogawa in Mae-Nikko. Eventually, Sebata-san met Mr. Juntaro Tanaka, who was fishing for yamame in Tenkara fishing in Okorogawa. Sebata-san begged for the teaching of Tenkara fishing. Mr. Tanaka was willing to teach Sebata-san how to make kebari, how to make tenkara lines, and the fun of tenkara fishing.

However, he never showed Sebata-san how to fish, and Sebata-san later thought that Tanaka-san probably wanted Sebata-san to learn tenkara fishing from yamame(It means to do fishing and study by myself). In addition, Tanaka-san always said, "Tenkara is an interesting fishing. If you catch 5 or 6 fish, you can't stop it anymore." “Tenkara is easy fishing. Just cast and pick up the rod then you can hook fish.”

However, when Sebata-san actually tried it, tenkara fishing was not so easy. Sebata-san says that the word "Quick setting hook for yamame" was stuck in his head, and it made tenkara fishing difficult. In the end, it was said that one season was over without the feeling that he was convinced that he had fished yamame. One day in the second season of Tenkara fishing, one cast did not go well, and the tippet and the line stayed slack and fell on the water surface. Sebata-san thought “Ah, this is useless”. Then yamame appeared and bit the kebari. he could not set the hook because the line was slacked. Anyway Sebata-san thought yamame had already escaped, but when he pulled the line that Yamame was still biting the kebari, and Sebata-san could catch the yamame. Sebata-san thought this was it. "If there is slack in the line or tippet, yamame does not spit out the kebari immediately. Then setting hook is easy even if it is a bit slow." It was the moment Sebata-san opened his eyes to tenkara fishing. Decades have passed since then, and Sebata-san has become one of Japan's leading tenkara fishermen. Kuro-kawa, the river of Sebata-san’s memories, flows through there in Okorogawa village.

Kuro-kawa gradually took on the appearance of a mountain stream from Satokawa(village stream), and I arrived at the Tenkara-only section. I met a friend, Kubota-san, in the car parking next to the house of the fishing ticket office. We were served cups of tea by the old man at the fishing ticket office, and we chatted about Sebata-san for a while, and he kindly told about recommended fishing points.


 We entered the point of Otaki (Big water fall), the most upstream part of the dedicated section. Kuro-kawa was a mountain stream with paved roads along the river, but the flowing water was wonderfully clear and clean. This day was a sunny day like early summer, and the temperature rose steadily as the sun rose. When we went down to the stream, many mayflis were already hatching and dancing on the stream. It was the best day for kebari fishing. I connected my traditiona Japanese bamboo tenkara rod, and we started fishing immediately. However, although we could see some yamame were staying in the water, they were not active, and we took turns fishing for a while, but I only caught one small yamame. While fishing the pool of Otaki, Ishimori-san and Hirasawa-san arrived by a car at the parking lot above the waterfall. We finished fishing and went up from the river once and talked for a while.

After talking somewhile, Ishimori-san wanted to do fishing, he started fishing a little downstream and immediately caught a good yamame over 25cm. Then, we move downstream altogerther, there was a good flow with some nice points that were looking better than upstream. As soon as Ishimori-san and I started fishing, Ishimori-san caught another 25cm over yamame again. Although it was discharged fish, it was beautiful yamame. I got motivation looking at that yamame, and I took turn of fishing in the good current, good-sized yamame was a hit in the flow immediately. He bent my bamboo rod and fought well. It was healthy 24cm yamame. Overall, it seemed that a fair number of yamame have been released in the tenkara-only section. The size of some yamame were also quite good.


 When I fished the good-sized yamame, I received an incoming call on my cell phone. It seemed that radio waves came in the stream because it was close to the village. When I answered the phone, it was from Takahisa-san, the eldest son of Sebata-san. Takahisa-san probably heard from Sebata-san that we would go to Okorogawa on that day. He said that he would come to Okorogawa in an hour because he had just some errands to do. It had been a few years since I met Takahisa-san last time.

About an hour later, when we just got up from the stream and were taking a break, Takahisa-san arrived. Since it was the first time for the other three people to meet Takahisa-san, I introduced them, and we talked about latest situations for a while. It was a good time, so we had lunch at a soba restaurant nearby. The weather was nice, so we took seats on the terrace. It seemed that there was a small campsite just below, and a good number of people are setting up tents on a sunny Saturday. I thought they might be anglers who were also camping. The topic of the talk went about Sebata-san. Takahisa-san said that Sebata-san’s legs became weak, and he could no longer walk in the genryu. Still, a few weeks ago, Sebata-san visited Okorogawa and stood by the stream, and he was happy to meet old friends living in Okorogawa. The soba sets had been served. The soba made with local buckwheat flour were accompanied by the local wild vegetable tempura, pickles, and rice, which was very delicious.
b
Takahisa-san said he would retire from his work in June. He had been very busy with work and away from genryu fishing for a long time, so he said he would like to start genryu fishing again after his retirement. So, we promised to go genryu fishing together in this summer and we said good-bye.

When I was driving home on the road along the Kuro-kawa after leaving the village of Okorogawa, I remembered that Sebata-san saying "In the old days, I could see a bunch of good yamame swimming in every single pool in Kuro-kawa." Sebata-san was smiling with longing eyes.



Genryu Fishing of Japan #42




Rainbow trout in Cobalt Blue stream

by Keiichi Okushi

Driving a car from the town where I live to the west for about two hours, there is a river named Ohsabi-gawa (Ohsabi-river) that flows from the mountains that continue to the south from Nasu mountain ranges. Its genryu area is still close to towns and villages where people live relatively. It is a genryu that can be easily approached, but the beauty of that genryu area is said to be the best in Kanto region. From the nearest village it only takes about 10 minutes to enter the dirt forest way entrance, and if we drive a car around a mountain for about 15 minutes, the scenery around there shows the aspect of deep mountain valley at once. The river is flowing far far below the steep cliffs in deep rich forests. So, we can only hear the sound of the river faintly on the forest road.

And above all, the beauty of the Ohsabi-gawa's water color is noteworthy. Normally, in the mountain streams of Japan, it shows the color of emerald green in the pools and deep flow parts. But, the color of the water in the genryu area of Ohsabi-gawa shines in a wonderfully beautiful cobalt blue. It is said that it is the influence of minerals contained in hot spring water springing in the head of the source. We genryu fishers called it “Ohsabi Blue” to honor its beauty. Even with those points, this Ohsabi-gawa is a river with enough charm to introduce to you, but there is another reason to make this Ohsabi-gawa famous more.

I wrote in this essay that "In Japan the fish living most upstream of the river is Iwana, no fish live upstream from Iwana." I think that it was certainly the episode of "Iwana". However, there are some exceptions, one of which is this Ohsabi-gawa. It is the fact that many rainbow trout were inhabited over the upstream of the habitat of Iwana, in the most upper part of Ohsabi-gawa. Those rainbow trout were also introduced in the articles of fishing magazines long time ago, and I heard from Mr. Sebata, saying that there were many rainbow trout in the stream and the large rainbow trout of 50cm to 60cm bent the fishing rods bigger.

Well, why did such a thing happen? It was because the Japanese fisheries experimental station had been released those rainbow trout to Ohsabi-gawa experimentally to test if American trout could live in genryu area of rivers in Japan. It was said that they discharged rainbow trout several times upstream of Otaki (Big Watefall) which was a run-up stop for Iwana at that time. The result was a huge success, and rainbow trout was said to have expanded their habitat considerably deep into the genryu area after that. It is about the beginning of the Showa era, that is more than 90 years ago from now. At that time the food situation in Japan was still bad, and rainbow trout was imported as the new food from the United States under such circumstances.

Unfortunately, now we are unable to see a group of rainbow trout swimming in the source of Okawa. This is because someone released Iwana from down-stream of the waterfall to the habitat of this rainbow trout 20 or 30 years ago. Afterthat, Iwana won the inhabitation competition with rainbow trout and now it is hard to see the appearance of rainbow trout in the genryu area. In recent years, not only fish but also various organisms raise problems of alien species, but it seemed that Iwana of native species of Japan was stronger than rainbow trout in this case.

Even now, rainbow trout is often released to the rivers and lakes here in Japan, but mostly it is done in the sections such as the catch & release areas, and many fish are poorly conditioned and many do not have natural mating power. Nevertheless, there are some places where rainbow trout, which were released in some rivers in Hokkaido and Honshu, are breeding naturally. Actually, even in this Ohsabi-gawa, we can meet descendants of rainbow trout that continues from the long time ago. It is only a little, but if you go to the most upper part of genryu section beyond a series of waterfalls walking several hours from the entrance point of the genryu. Yes, we are still able to encounter rainbow trout who are alive in that isolated area.



In the summer of 2018, I went to Ohsabi-gawa to see those rainbow trout with my genryu fishing friends Takano-san and Fuku-chan for 2 nights. Actually, I had gon fishing in Ohsabi-gawa 5 or 6 times so far, but I had never caught rainbow trout at all. Once, I walked to a considerable genryu section and stayed for a night and fished, but it seemed that I had not reached to the habitat of the rainbow trout. This time, we gathered at parking palce at the end of the forest road and stayed for a night. We got down to the river as soon as the next morning walking for about an hour and a half. We set up a temba (camp) where we walked the river about 30 minutes from the entrance point. We walked to the most genryu area soon taking only fishing equipment and lunch. On the way, we did not do any fishing. We left the temba at 9 o'clock and arrived at the place which seemed to be the habitat of rainbow trout at around 11:30.



We prepared for fishing quickly and started fishing. Soon Fuku-chan and Takano-san caught fish first, but both were good sized Iwana. "Well, I guess we can not catch rainbow trout easily." After such conversations, Fuku-chan finally fished a small rainbow trout at the place where we climbed over two small waterfalls. And Takano-san fished a little bigger rainbow trout as well. Both rainbow trout were not big but beautiful, a wild rainbow trout without any doubt. At first glance, the rainbow trout of Ohsabi-gawa had very dilute green (or blue) color on the back, and the red band on the side of the body was remarkably shading in color. It was rainbow trout with a distinctly different personality from rainbow trout living in other rivers and lakes in Japan.



Following them, I also took out my fishing rod. They gave me a first-class point with a deep flow under a small waterfall of about 1 meter. I cast the fly just under the waterfall and letting it drift natural about 2m, then fish came out immediately. When hooked him up, the next moment the big fish jumped. A typical rainbow trout fight pattern. I enjoyed his powerful pull. After a wonderful fight, I landed a rainbow trout that was a little smaller than 30cm.



While I was taking pictures of the fish which I normally do not take, I suddenly got a feeling "this rainbow trout was living his life in that isolated genryu area connecting the life from ancestors released to Ohsabi-gawa almost 100 years ago." Then he looked like a very precious thing like a jewel to me. Yes, I thought he was the jewel of genryu, and although rainbow trout is not a native fish of Japan, I really wanted them and their descendants to stay alive in this genryu area of Ohsabi-gawa forever.