Just did a day with a hand-furled line - i've been fishing level lines lately, but started tenkara with hand-furled lines. I may need to go back to the hand furled for small stream fishing - at least for certain rods. Roll casting into tight spots a bit easier with the furled line.
I don't use a machine - just do the old hand twist.
I like that rig you built - may need to make one too.
Although once you get used to doing it by hand you can crank them out pretty quickly that way.
Since I am doing a one-fly season this year perhaps I'll take the extra time to perfect the weights and tapers of furled lines for various rods and conditions.
I am especially interested in perfecting a small brushy stream short-line. On small brushy streams with no room for back casts I find myself doing a lot of roll-casting.
The line I tied up for the trip a few days ago worked fairly well with the AYU II - but it could use a little tuning. Roll casts were very doable - but not quite as effortless as I'd like.
Perhaps a heavier or longer butt section - I'm not sure. Maybe doing it in fluoro instead of mono.
I think I've found a new quest for the season though - perfecting the small stream furled line to fit my personal style.
The line I used was 6# mono based line - started with an 8 strand butt tapered to 6->4->2 strands and came out at about 10 feet total, which once tippet was added - was just about perfect with the 13' AYU on the small streams.
check out my blog CastingAround
A level line is my first choice re: accuracy and maximizing stealth (viz and suspend) A furled line usually is after that, user friendly (easy)
I like having choices and targeting with a level line is what I end up with most.
That system just makes sense.
Starting to gather the tech and info to build my furler.
You know the definition of insanity?
Looks like there is a good example of it here.
We have gathered a couple of recipe's for it...
I've been watching the hand-made line process evolve. I tried a couple that ended up in the trash due to tangles. Today it all came together. This was a proof-of-concept effort only. Useable lines come next.
Borrowing from Eddie -
I came up with this -
...card stock with three holes to act as a guide, taped to the table allows me to use two hands for twisting. A couple pieces of tape close by let me stop at any time and attend to either end of the lines to undo twists and loops. (I had very few.)
From Karl http://www.tenkaraonthefly.net/2011/...ng-update.html I took his idea of three cups, placing them on stools, threading the lines through the handles, and widely separate the tails of the individual lines -
The lines were free to twist, but didn't snare each other in the process.
And 10 minutes later had a level furled line 15' long-
I used three strands of 6# fluoro. A 20' line would weigh 1.33 grams
This line probably isn't useful. It is hard to see. I intend to get some HiViz of the appropriate weight and build something usable.
But, the point is, this is a very simple way to furl lines. And doing 3' or 4' or 6' sections, each of different weight, you can hand build any taper you like.
My frustration when I tried this a while ago was line management. Adding the Eddy's "line guide" and Karl's "cup controllers" made all the difference. Thank you both.
It's a slam dunk.
When Eiji was teaching me how to build lines I asked him why each segment in his formula is 4 ft long. His answer was "When I was making them by hand before I built the machine, my arm span is 4 ft. That was the longest I could make the segments."
The size of the line making machine that he gave me was determined on the ability to break the machine down to fit in a standard suitcase for travel. If I ever build another one, I am going to make the machine taller so I can build 5' segments and get rid of a knot or two in the line.
Nothing earth shattering, I just thought it was an interesting piece of line making trivia.
It's the summing of these "little pieces" that is really fun to watch.
Not earth shattering by themselves, but WOW! when you put them all together.